New Allure Cover - Some Bad Blush

What's with Mariah Carey's blush on the new (April 2008) Allure cover?


Image from allure.com

It looks like she has some peachy beige blush on, which would look fabulous except for the fact that it was applied in such an unflattering place!

A few quick rules of thumb with blush and wanting to keep the look natural and flattering:

-SKIP THE SKI SLOPES! Please don't put your blush on this way. Especially not with colour, as demonstrated by the above cover, because it looks strange. The puckering-mouth, ski-slope-under-the-cheeks method is a contouring technique. Use skinlike tones (beige/taupe tones and foundation colours) to contour your face, because they mimic the actual tones of the shading you are trying to accentuate.

-SMILE. Make a big smile at yourself in the mirror. See the fleshy pad that pops out under your eyes when you do this? That's the apple of your cheek. Keep your blush colour in this area, and diffuse it out and upward. A great trick for a nice uplifting effect is to keep your blush to the outer two thirds of the apples of your cheeks, blending up and out.

-USE THE PROPER TOOL. The brush that I like to use to get a great daytime blush application is actually a medium sized powder brush. I find that many blush brushes are too small to effectively diffuse colour, although some powder brushes these days are way too big to use for the cheek alone. Look for a brush that is about the size of the apple of your cheek, as anything too big will be messy and anything too small will be streaky.

-LESS IS MORE. Blush (especially in the daytime) should bring a subtle vibrancy and life to your face. The current aesthetic for blush looks leans towards a lit-from-within glow, which is a far cry from the overt rouged looks of eras past. It's all about fooling the eye - go ahead and wear your (barely perceptible) blush, just don't let your screaming blush wear you!

Eyebrows

Anyone that knows me well knows that I have grown to become quite obsessed with eyebrows.

Eyebrows really are the frame for the face, and properly shaped and groomed eyebrows can make all the difference to your look. Although shapes and styles have changed throughout the ages, there are some key features to eyebrow looks right now that can make your look more current and modern.


The perfect modern brow, courtesy of allure.com

First new rule: LET YOUR BROWS GROW.

I know how easy it is to simply stick to a look you feel has been working for you, regardless of how long you have been doing it. Brows these days are thicker, fuller and shaped. Do not be afraid when you hear thick brows, these are not the unkempt look of the '80s.

Secondly, PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR ARCH.

We have all read this and that about how to find your arch and groom your eyebrows properly, but the truth is that the most current look for brows is groomed under a completely different set of measurements. Take for example the positioning of the arch is relation to the eye. Notice that the arch is pushed out from the centre of the face. In relation to the proportions of the brow, the arch is now starting at the outer third of the brow, and is not necessarily groomed in relation to the position of the iris (as previously mentioned in most brow grooming guides).

Thirdly, MODIFY THE SHAPE.

The most striking and contemporary shape to the brows is one that has a smoother, more fluid underline that transitions gradually from the beginning through to the arch at about two thirds out, and then gradually curves and tapers to form the end. Pay attention to the positioning of the endpoint in relation to the lowest point on the inner edge of your brow, above the inner corner of your eye. Notice that the inner corner is lower than the endpoint. If a level horizontal line was drawn across the eye touching the lower inner corner of the brows, the endpoint of the brow would be higher than this line. This creates a nice uplifting effect and really opens up the eye. I know it can be a little hard to achieve this raised endpoint, but please at least keep it level with the lower inner corner, as it will keep you from looking tired or sad.

Here's another contemporary brow, illustrating the perspective when viewing the face straight on:

The amazing Jessica Stam, from style.com

Next time you take a look at a recent magazine, take a second to really look at the eyebrows. It is easy to pass them up when you aren't especially looking out for them, but take a second to analyze the new shapes that are out there. You'll see what I mean...

Highlighting the Eye

I want to introduce you to a little secret. It is very simple to do, but it works WONDERS for anyone wanting to appear more alert, more awake, and more alive.

It's a little trick called highlighting the eye. Many of you may already do it - you know, that little pop of a light shadow colour you put on your browbone. But there is one more place that is key for achieving that bright eyed look, the inner corners of the eye. Placing just a little bit of highlight colour right there can make all the difference in the world. Make sure that you are putting your highlight right on the inner corner without sweeping it down into your undereye concealer. It won't look right if you sweep it too low, particularly if you have puffiness under the eye, as any extra light-catching will make those bags look worse!

Great highlight colours can be found with regular eyeshadows, like a simple pearly vanilla or soft white shade. The pearly ones actually do work well on mature lids, provided that they are genuinely pearly/opalescent and NOT GLITTER. Fine micro particles of pearlescence are the key - they help scatter the light in that area and really brighten the inner corners. Use a small brush with a soft, rounded bristle pack and a tapered tip to make it super easy to reach and effortless to blend.

My two favourite colours are gloMinerals single eyeshadow in Diamond (a soft vanilla with pearlescence that works for practically everyone) and Revlon eyeshadow in Pure Pearl (more white and great for fair skin).

Try it yourself and be amazed at the difference this one little step does!

Concealers Part 1 - Under Eye

Concealers are the backbone of any makeup look, be it natural or full-on glamour. One basic use that everyone appreciates having concealer for is under the eyes.

Although some have more issues with their under eye area than others, everyone can enjoy the instant lift and pop that a good under eye concealer can give. Basically, a great under eye concealer will give you the pick me up that lets others believe that you had eight hours of sleep last night.

Of course there is basic heavy concealer, the kind that is great for blemishes or discolourations but may be too much for the under eye - no one wants to look crepey and uneven, especially not under the eyes.

Now there are newer formulations made for use in this area, with a smoother, thinner consistency AND light diffusing particles. They are made to camouflage darkness by reflecting light in the (usually shadowed) area around the inner corners of your eyes. A fabulous optical (pun intended) illusion!

I have used one called Touche Eclat from Yves Saint Laurent Beaute, a highlight concealer with light diffusing properties. It has a very thin consistency and comes in a click-pen format, with a brush tip.

There is also a new product from gloMinerals called gloBrightener highlight concealer. It is a click pen with a sponge tip, so you can just smooth it over the area and blend with your ring finger, no brush needed. It has a bit more coverage than the Touche Eclat, with light diffusing properties as well.


Image courtesy of gloMinerals.

I have taken a picture so that you can see its magic in action. It is quite nice as it gives subtle coverage and light diffusion, with a creamy texture that hydrates and prevents crepiness.


As you can see, I have gloBrightener on the left side, and no concealer on the right side. It conceals and evens the tone under my eye without looking cakey or overdone. Love it!

P.S. Please excuse the unkempt brows, but check back for my upcoming posts on my experiments with them. I have been in serious need of brow rehab, so I have locked up my tweezers and started trying some new methods to regrow... once testing is up, expect a report from me!

The 411 on Mascaras

Mascaras have come a long way from the original formulation of coal dust and petroleum jelly in 1913. There is an endless variety of formulas and colours out there, but the main desire that each addresses is essentially the same - to make your lashes look more prominent, more defined, just MORE OOMPH!

Although there are many wild and wacky mascaras with bright colours, multiple steps (primers, lash "builders" and the like), many will get all their mascara needs answered with one great tube of well-matched mascara.

One of the first questions to ask yourself is, "Do I want length or do I want volume?" If you aren't sure, look at your lashes. Do you have lots of little, short lashes? You may prefer a lengthening mascara, seeing as you have lots of lashes, but they aren't that long. On the other hand, if you have fewer but longer lashes, you may want a volumizing mascara. A volumizing mascara will give your longer lashes more presence, and keep them from looking sparse. Many mascaras do a little bit of both, but most formulas will focus on either lengthening or volumizing.

Another thing to look for is how curly or straight your lashes are. I have fairly straight lashes, so an eyelash curler makes all the difference to the final effect of my mascara. If you are intimidated by an eyelash curler, please just pick up one (they are sold in every drugstore now) and practice. It makes a world of difference to virtually everybody. Taking the extra minute to curl you lashes in the morning ensures that they look great all day, because your mascara helps hold the curl throughout the day. Some mascaras are "curling formulas" but nothing takes the place of curling with an eyelash curler.

In terms of colour, most mascaras come in black, brown, or something in between. If your hair is dark, black mascara will give nice definition, day or night. For blondes wanting subtle definition, a brown mascara works well. Mascaras in a black-brown colour are great for most people during the daytime, and are a pretty fail-safe option for everyone.

Basic mascaras may also come in blue, which is usually a dark navy tone. This is actually a really nice look for anyone with blue-green or hazel eyes, as it really makes the green tone in eyes pop. The effect is very nice, but it is hardly a look that screams, "I'm wearing coloured mascara." Try it if you have those in-between coloured eyes.

Waterproof mascara is not necessary for everyday wear, unless you are a swimmer or cut onions daily. It can be very drying for your lashes, and difficult to remove. Try to save this only for occasions when you need it.

Prime Time for Primers

Ever wonder how someone's makeup can stay on flawlessly throughout the day? Have you ever asked someone their trick to flawless foundation and heard the response primer and felt perplexed?

Primers may seem like just an extra step after moisturizer and before foundation, but they are a gift from heaven for anyone that needs staying power from their makeup. Silicone based primers are especially great for normal to dry skin types, or those suffering from, dare I say it - WINTER SKIN!

The way a primer works is to create a smooth, even canvas over which you apply foundation. Primers help to disguise pores, fine lines, or uneven texture, and help your foundation adhere to the skin and stay put. You might have heard of Smashbox primer, a great silicone based primer that creates a nice smooth effect. Another fabulous silicone based primer is gloMinerals gloFace Primer. Although I have found that these are both very similar in consistency and effect, the gloFace Primer has the added benefit of vitamin K, which is great for toning and tightening.



If you want that fabulous, flawless finish that lasts all day (and all night), try a primer!

Get glowing all over with gloDust!

Feeling a little lacklustre? Maybe a little dull?

I don't know about you, but sometimes I just need a beauty pick-me-up. Mine comes in the form of a beautiful shimmery dust called gloDust. It is really quite amazing, because it can be used in so many ways. You can dust it on in its powder form to highlight areas like the shoulders, decollete or browbones. It can also be mixed into lotion and applied as an all-over shimmer lotion. You can also use gloDust in your hair! You can try it a la Marlene Dietrich and sprinkle a little powder into your hair. You can also mix it into a styling lotion or shine serum and work it in that way.


From left to right, gloMinerals silver gloDust, gold gloDust, and bronze gloDust

It comes in three colours - silver, gold, and bronze. The silver is quite frosty. The gold is very subtle and looks great on everybody, including pale me. The bronze is the deepest and most potent, and would be great mixed into a styling lotion on brown hair or as a highlighter on darker skintones.