Wednesday, March 26, 2008

New Allure Cover - Some Bad Blush

What's with Mariah Carey's blush on the new (April 2008) Allure cover?

Allure Mariah April 08
Image from allure.com

It looks like she has some peachy beige blush on, which would look fabulous except for the fact that it was applied in such an unflattering place!

A few quick rules of thumb with blush and wanting to keep the look natural and flattering:

-SKIP THE SKI SLOPES! Please don't put your blush on this way. Especially not with colour, as demonstrated by the above cover, because it looks strange. The puckering-mouth, ski-slope-under-the-cheeks method is a contouring technique. Use skinlike tones (beige/taupe tones and foundation colours) to contour your face, because they mimic the actual tones of the shading you are trying to accentuate.

-SMILE. Make a big smile at yourself in the mirror. See the fleshy pad that pops out under your eyes when you do this? That's the apple of your cheek. Keep your blush colour in this area, and diffuse it out and upward. A great trick for a nice uplifting effect is to keep your blush to the outer two thirds of the apples of your cheeks, blending up and out.

-USE THE PROPER TOOL. The brush that I like to use to get a great daytime blush application is actually a medium sized powder brush. I find that many blush brushes are too small to effectively diffuse colour, although some powder brushes these days are way too big to use for the cheek alone. Look for a brush that is about the size of the apple of your cheek, as anything too big will be messy and anything too small will be streaky.

-LESS IS MORE. Blush (especially in the daytime) should bring a subtle vibrancy and life to your face. The current aesthetic for blush looks leans towards a lit-from-within glow, which is a far cry from the overt rouged looks of eras past. It's all about fooling the eye - go ahead and wear your (barely perceptible) blush, just don't let your screaming blush wear you!

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